THE SECOND DECADE OF GRIME

THE SECOND DECADE OF GRIME AND THE INFLUENCE IN FASHION

Fashion for the younger person often reflects what they listens to, we base our outfits on the status of an event depending on where it is and what artist is playing. Grime is an intriguing genre of music, a type of music that I enjoy  listening to and get inspired by. Music has always inspired how people dress as we constantly follow new trends, celebrities and artistic movements. The daily struggle of what to wear has become one trend.To dress in tracksuits, caps and trainers and keeping real to yourself and your background  is why the artists dress the way they do, while still looking good and influencing their audience.  In the 90s many of the UK garage clubs banned trousers, trainers, jeans and baseball caps. These forbidden items of clothing are now worn in grime. Around 2013 grime began to remember what had made it such a powerful presence in the first place.

NAZIR MAZHAR X SKEPTA

The scene's current influence is being felt and heard all over the country, and slowly all over the world. Since the second upcoming decade of grime Nazir Mazhar has always been showing grime influences in his collections, Skepta walking in his S/S15 collection, in contrast to his S/S16 collection the head-to-toe ruching tracksuits. In the past his looks have been styled with Nike Air Max, s/s16 was the beginning of Nasir Mazhar's own line of footwear.

Menswear journalist Daryoush Haj-Najafi commented on his recent work "Nasir is creating a world that has a way of talking, a way of dancing, a way of moving, a way of dressing. It's got a whole world around it that is thought of as street but it's not just street, it's so much more."  He is a very modern designer and is aware of what is trending and current in the fashion movement, which is perhaps why he is so appealing to the younger person too. 

NASIR MAZHAR SS16

Sportswear and unisex clothing are raging profits at the moment, its interesting wearing something that’s playing with gender. Girls are wearing boys clothes and we all have a different insight on clothing than we did a few years ago when clothing was a lot more feminine. On the streets of London there are many individual individual artists and an abundance of interesting streetwear, a lot of which is inspired by grime. Lad culture is back in fashion, 'an effortless mix of Astrid with Adidas, Nasir with Nike, Raf with Rebook and Shannon with Stone Island' (as stated in I.D) 

I consider why people wear tracksuits and trainers , perhaps they allow you to move and travel effectively within a busy lifestyle. It is interesting that people are styling their outfits for comfort and ease not just for chic.

D DOUBLE E 2003 "Tracksuits were
the only thing people wore back in the day, whether
it was Averix, Akdmk or the standard Nike ting"

Tracksuits for boys aren’t new, when Skepta (Grime artist) walked for Nasir Mazhar in 2014, in a full black tracksuit, he was  changing Nasir's status,  proving a point for boys sportswear, tracksuits, casual clothing and designs and that its always been on the streets. Tracksuits are made unisex by the clever removal of shoulder seams and drawstrings. The tracksuit first left the running track and hit the streets in the 70s. They were used for practical use to keeping athletes warm while training. Things stayed like that until shell suits came into fashion in the early 80s, New York presenting hip hop stars and break-dancers. Michael Jordan and OJ Simpson gathered the world's notice and overnight sportswear became street wear and was suddenly a look of elevation that was practical and cool. 

90S STREETWEAR

When the tracksuit came to the streets of the UK in the 70s it didn't achieve the  same exciting attention, it was very unattractive. In 2005, the hoodie was completely banned by a schools in England and Wales as it was associated with  bad behaviour, and became to look 'chavy'. 

(DAZED) 'TURNING TRACKSUIT INTO COUTURE'
THIS IS THE UNIFORM SS16 CAMPAIGN

COTTWEILER SS16

ASTRID ANDERSON SS16

I think that grime is inspiring fashion on the streets and this reflected in the work of up and coming designers. Girls are wearing boys clothes, unisex is normal now. We aren’t wearing fitted clothing, the oversized trends and sportswear is all about unisex and how it’s the new normal.  "Sweatshirts and tracksuits have been the domain of young London designers for a while now, but the words 'street wear' or 'sportswear' are demeaning to them: what they are creating is pure fashion," (menswear journalist Charlie Porter said in his spring/summer 15 London Collections) There is a lot of gender play and 90s on the streets at the moment, which is an influence from grime and music, old reebok trainers and Umbro joggers tucked into Nike socks is the new wave of trend. London's menswear designers are so free to push boundaries, but disregarding the limitations of traditional menswear, and combining new ideas with inspiration from the urban environments that surround them.

Despite the bad attention of the tracksuit, or maybe because of it, the tracksuit has comeback. Since 2015 the full tracksuit has become the coolest uniform, practical, comfortable and now in the come back of tracksuits  and it is now unisex. Grime is inspiring the tracksuit, ‘turning the tracksuit into couture’ (DAZED). Designers such as 

EXPERIMENTATION- before collection (collection development)

Time re-dressed Presentation boards

Final collection- Handmade

For this collection i focused on colour and using geometric shapes devolped from my observational drawing from our yarn bomb. I didnt tend to stick to a particular colour palette due to our installation containing alpt of clashing and extravigant colours. I experimented with media such as - monoprinting, Free machine stich, oil pastels, charcoal, coloured pastels, indian ink and image transfer techniques. 

CAD collection

My motif was my inspiration for my CADcollection, i focused on different sections then experimented with colour and size then put it into different types of patterns (half/drop,repeat) 

My visulations i chose because i wanted an expressive extravigant garment as i think my prints are quite busy and might not suit a simple garment. The photographs i find are quite interesting to see my print on this type of setting and background i think presents my prints in an interesting way. 

IDEA DEVOLPMENT BOARDS

Both these boards are my idea devolpmeents and how i have genereted my ideas into a collection.

Using alots of printing techniques, cutting into paper, monoprint and using alot of different types of media. 

Independant Research

MCQUEEN

I like the way he uses very expressive prints with extravigant colours and pattern. The collection is very interesyig and is very inspiring for my work. 

TIME BASED MEDIA RESEARCH 

Yixuan Wang uses a fine liner to create her time based media video. I like the way its very simple and basic but interesting and well thought throughout with alot of imagery.

ANIMATION

YARN BOMB YOUTUBE VIDEO

GEOMETRIC PRINTS 

BROOKE ROBERTS
'Brooke Roberts label explores and demonstrates the link between science and design'

Brooke Roberts garments use a lot of geometric prints which relates to my motif, cad collection and hand made collection. I like her use of squares and basic colour which brings attention to the detail of the garment. 

Research

I have been inspired by Mary Katranzou's prints in my work. I find her work really interesting and full of colour. Her patterns are expressive and use both random and symmetrical prints.

http://superfora.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/mary-katrantzou-fw2011-2.jpg

I like the clashing colour she uses in this collection, which is something I would like to achieve in my own collection.

Jo Faulkner's drawing style is also quite interesting and is similar to the black and white designs I have created. I think she has used a felt tip pen which creates a bold line. I have used charcoal and oil pastels in my drawings to also create loose and free marks like this.


Hellen van Rees' work is very structured and I like the use of black and white. The different tones are created through layering black and white threads to create a hand-made tweed. The work has a very textural feel. I would like to create a build up of tone in my prints.



Hellen van Rees has not only excelled as a emerging new designer, she is also challenging the world of sustainable fashion through the use of her handmade tweeds which make up her collection. Hellen's tweeds are all sustainably sourced and produced, complimenting her technical craftsmanship skills and the geometric aesthetic her current collection possesses. http://modadelamode.blogspot.co.uk/2012_09_01_archive.html